So a friend of mine here wrote to me, “The interesting thing about being here is that every image I’ve ever seen of Africa-the babies starving, the vast savannah, the great, the beautiful, the putrid, and the horrible-it’s all true, just all at once.” It seems an apropos theme for this entry, which is really about triumph and tragedy both. A month ago I left for Accra and went down there for two reasons, to submit our proposal to Ghana AIDS commission, and to celebrate the 6th of March, which marked the 50th year anniversary of independence from England. It was the first country that was under colonial rule to achieve independence, and thus it was also a kick off celebration for all of the other African countries achieving independence as well. Many of the other heads of state in Africa were in Ghana to celebrate. The celebration itself was impressive and inspiring. There was a Carnaval type atmosphere in the streets with celebrations all over the capital. There were many brass bands marching the streets with dancers following. There were mobile parties with sound systems on flat beds. And of course there were street parties in many neighborhoods. I went to Independence Square to witness the mayhem but didn’t actually get to see the parade. I would have had to get up at 5 am to get a seat and wasn’t willing to make that commitment. But I had a good time getting there on African time and being on the periphery and people watching. There were people in red, gold and green everywhere. Ladies with their hair dyed 3 colors, babies with doorags of the flag on their head, and lots of people with traditional outfits made out of local cloth emblazoned with the 50th anniversary logo. There was African pride everywhere, and I was proud to be in Ghana that day. It was good to realize despite the challenges that Ghana has faced making its own way apart from colonial rule, they have managed to survive and thrive. It made me realize how misunderstood Africa is, especially in America. People are constantly fed negative images and only the problems are reported on, none of the positive. I doubt the celebration here was even covered in the American media, despite its importance to the 50+ countries of Africa.

At the same time when I got back to Lawra I had a reminder that even though Ghana has come a long way, it still has a ways to go. We had our monthly meeting of our PLWHA meeting, which they recently renamed “Lantaa Songtaa Association” which in my local language Dagaare means “come together and help one another” on the third Saturday in March. I entered the meeting and they were just starting, conducting a special prayer for Parmanance, our 5 year old in the group. He looked terrible, like the images you have seen of the children with AIDS in the hospitals who have wasted away to almost nothing. I had not seen him since December, when they took a trip 5 hours away to Bolgatanga for antiretroviral therapy (ART). I had heard he was in the hospital at one point, but had no idea his condition had become so dire. I learned that day from his Aunt who is his caretaker that when he went to start the drug in Bolga they informed him that since the town closer to us Wa was beginning to offer ART that he should start on the drug there since they would monitor his condition. This was despite the fact that they did a CD4 count test in Bolga and found out that is CD4 count was 5, which basically means it was as low as it gets. But when I saw him in December he was still healthy, though a bit thin. I knew that we had sent him for ART in Wa, but what I didn’t realize is that they couldn’t give him ART because they didn’t yet have the children’s formulation. We took him every week but they kept saying next week, next week it is coming. So unfortunately Parmanance passed away 2 days later. I don’t know if they have received the children’s formulation yet in Wa. These are the times when it is hardest to work here. It is fine to be on GMT (Ghana Maybe Time as a British volunteer I know dubbed it) when I realize I am going to have to wait 2 or 3 hours for my van to leave. I always carry a book with me because I know that may be the case. It is harder to deal with GMT when it comes to people’s lives. I was inspired at the meeting though of how positive people were. We all knew the inevitable would happen and I am sure it made more than one PLWHA at the meeting aware of their own mortality, but they carried on with dignity and even joy, singing songs and keeping the meeting positive as always.

Despite the sadness at his passing, we are continuing to carry on doing our work. Things have been busy as usual at work, unfortunately things don’t slow down just because we are in the heart of the hot season. I am doing my best with the heat, it is only trying to get a good night’s sleep that is challenging when it is in the 90s at night. I don’t actually know what the temperature has been, nor do I really want to know. It has been so hot that I have started putting my bath water in the refrigerator so I can take a cold bath. My water heats to luke warm temperature sitting inside my kitchen in my barrels. On nights where it is lights out and there is no electricity (and therefore no fans) I have been wetting my sarong and putting it over myself so I can sleep. I wake up later when it dries completely and then wet it again and go back to sleep. Many, many thanks to those who have sent packages. It has been good not to have to cook as much, I appreciate it. I hope all is well for each and all of you and spring is treating you well in the States.